25th January, moving to high camp 3, 5900m

This was my first shitty night, and in great part my fault. I did not drink enough, woke up many times thirsty, but felt shy about peeing in the tent with two men nearby (like they'd care, it's the mountain, and also, with my funnel and bottle, there is nothing to be seen of be shy of) and therefore kept drinking to a minimum. Result: bad sleep, headache, nausea, everything I'd been working really hard to avoid. We were also woken by people leaving in the middle of the night to make their summit bid now, and their rallying cries. The wind was relentless, constantly screeching.

Lito removing ice from front of tent.

Jaime and Lito woke up to start making water, and I huddled in my sleeping bag, hoping for the sun, which only started to warm up the tent about an hour later. In the meantime, I listened to Jaime and Lito. Their presence was incredibly comforting and soothing, and I felt happy to have shared a tent with them. They told jokes and laughed softly as they set about breakfast, cursing at the stoves. We have three going full blast, and two are new. Predictably, those are the ones that keep breaking down, and Jaime was constantly having to duck out of the tent to fix one of them. As well as Quique's, the guide next to us, whose (brand new) stoves were also giving him problems. I guess the company is going to hear about those! The guides are furious with these "improvements".

With Jaime, shortly before we leave

Lito gave me an aspirin, and I forced down some food and liquids, but not nearly enough, I knew. I would have to work hard to make up for this self-inflicted damage.

As the previous day, the porters arrived early (they actually go back to base camp to sleep, and then saunter up as if it were nothing, carry stuff, and slide back down). I once again separated my stuff in what would go with them and what I would keep with me.

Camp Berlin, close to our own camp 3, Cholera

It took 3 hours to get to this last high camp. And I was infuriated with myself; I had no strength whatsoever, my thighs shook, I felt like I had had a huge workout and then forgotten to eat, and felt weak. Eating required an uneasy balance between forcing stuff down, but not so much that I wouldn't be able to keep it down. Vomiting and the ensuing dehydration is really to be avoided. Lito was a little worried, and encouraged me. It shouldn't have been this difficult. Jackman had no problems. Shum arrived an hour and a half after we did, and looked absolutely beaten. I felt badly, it didn't look like he'd be able to make it.

Lito's innovative sock-drying technique

My appetite picked up and I took soup, bread, tea. I felt pretty lethargic. The wind kept howling. Jaime and Lito kept working hard to make life comfortable for us. They have to go dig ice out with the piolets, cook, make us drink and eat, give us the approved plastic bags to go to the bathroom and then collect these excrements into "KK Tubes" to bring back down. It's like being parented. They make us feel safe and cared for. It's difficult to stay healthy at these altitudes without experienced. The cold makes you numb and slow, you know what you should do, but do it less and less. They do everything for us.

Lito and Jaime with another guide passing through


A contemplative walk at sunset

One last night. Tomorrow is the summit bid. Eat, drink, try to rest, even if sleep is impossible. I do fall asleep though, listening to the comforting breaths of the other two people in the tent.


Sunset remains absolutely spectacular, but so cold, as soon as the sun goes down, everything finds refuge in their sleeping bags. Worth a shiver for these pictures, though.