Je quitte ce matin pour la région de Vallecitos. Situé à moins de deux heures de route de Mendoza, ce petit centre de ski reste ouvert durant la saison estivale pour permettre aux gens de faire de la pré-aclimatation. Le centre est à 2900m, et est entouré de montagnes qui ne présentent aucune difficulté technique mais qui montent jusqu'à 6300m. Evidemment, je n'ai pas l'intention de me rendre jusque là. Heber Orona, le propriétaire de la compagnie avec laquelle je voyage (le premier argentin à être parvenu à faire l'Everest sans oxygène, en 1999, et ayant terminé le marathon vertical il y a deux ans) me demande d'y aller mollo, juste de me promener jusqu'à environ 4000m graduellement sur les 4 jours que je me trouverai là, mais de garder mes forces pour l'Aconcagua.
I'll be staying in the ski center, but in case there is no room left (there are only 40 beds, and lots of people wanting to acclimatize, normally) I am bringing my tent and everything, as there are campgrounds further up. I am really excited!
Saturday, January 10, 2009
Friday, January 9, 2009
The boot dilema
It is a nice town, but I already want to get myself to some place cooler! It is way too hot here, my body is in shock, and I have lost my appetite.
This morning I went to meet with the owner of the company I am doing this expedition with. Later this afternoon, I will leave with them the gear that I will not need for my few days of solo pre-aclimatization (crampons, piolet, mountaineering boots, some of the heavier, warmer clothes etc), will try to send off to my friend Julio from Puerto Madryn the tent and kayaking gear that I will only need once I get there, and then meet back up with Ryan and the rest of his expedition, which leaves tomorrow. They all arrived this morning, and are now doing the stuff that I will need to do myself next week: getting their gear checked over and approved, and getting the park fee paid.
And now I am worried. I did not bring double plastic mountaineering boots. Mine are the Sportiva ice climbing and expedition boots. They are excellent except for one detail; they are not as warm. I had checked with my guide with this, and he felt that, with supergaiters and vapour socks, it would be fine. But this guide is being quite adament that Ryan, who has boots very similar to mine, and another member of their group with the same gear, rent double plastic boots here, not trusting that ours would prevent us from freezing a toe or two off. I personally have no intentions of leaving any digits here, so I am concerned, and will chat with my guide about this. The other concern, however, is that these boots will be worn for 5 days during the expedition, including summit day. That is more than plenty of time to get blisters from unfamiliar gear. I know Ryan does not want to let himself be convinced to leave behind a pair of boots that he has never been cold in, even in -25 degrees weather, and that his feet are used to. I do not fancy the idea of putting on boots that have been worn by plenty of other feet and could therefore injure me. I welcome any suggestions!
This morning I went to meet with the owner of the company I am doing this expedition with. Later this afternoon, I will leave with them the gear that I will not need for my few days of solo pre-aclimatization (crampons, piolet, mountaineering boots, some of the heavier, warmer clothes etc), will try to send off to my friend Julio from Puerto Madryn the tent and kayaking gear that I will only need once I get there, and then meet back up with Ryan and the rest of his expedition, which leaves tomorrow. They all arrived this morning, and are now doing the stuff that I will need to do myself next week: getting their gear checked over and approved, and getting the park fee paid.
And now I am worried. I did not bring double plastic mountaineering boots. Mine are the Sportiva ice climbing and expedition boots. They are excellent except for one detail; they are not as warm. I had checked with my guide with this, and he felt that, with supergaiters and vapour socks, it would be fine. But this guide is being quite adament that Ryan, who has boots very similar to mine, and another member of their group with the same gear, rent double plastic boots here, not trusting that ours would prevent us from freezing a toe or two off. I personally have no intentions of leaving any digits here, so I am concerned, and will chat with my guide about this. The other concern, however, is that these boots will be worn for 5 days during the expedition, including summit day. That is more than plenty of time to get blisters from unfamiliar gear. I know Ryan does not want to let himself be convinced to leave behind a pair of boots that he has never been cold in, even in -25 degrees weather, and that his feet are used to. I do not fancy the idea of putting on boots that have been worn by plenty of other feet and could therefore injure me. I welcome any suggestions!
Thursday, January 8, 2009
Fated meetings
Traveling is full of such meetings. I was boarding my flight to Buenos Aires feeling incredibly relieved; I would not, as I had feared, be delayed by the snow by 2 or 3 days (as flights out are not daily) and I would arrive in time to start the acclimatization process. I was musing about the 18 hour bus ride to Mendoza. I would be able to finish the trash novel I had brought for this purpose; I was keeping the good stuff (climbing books) for the actual journey. The guy walking in front of me was talking on the phone about his own relief with the flight situation and his confidence that he would now catch his connection to Mendoza.
Mendoza? People go there for 2 reasons: the mountains, or the wine. I quickly looked at what he was wearing. Jeans, a bulky sweater, a small pack useful for the city but not for the mountain. And talking into a blackberry. A wine amateur. Or maybe a mountaineer in disguise? Of course, we struck up a short conversation, just enough to realize that he and I were embarking on the same expedition, although a few days apart. Predictably, exhausted as the entire plane was, Ryan and I did not continue chatting until this morning, when we enthusiastically compared gear and routes, travels and goals. I suddenly wanted to be there NOW, I wanted to get in it all right away. I knew the flight was pretty cheap. What prevented me from taking it was the excess weight fee; I was allowed 2 pieces of 23kg each out of Canada, but internal flights here allow for half that weight. Each additional kilogram gets a charge of 12 pesos, potentially making the surcharge more expensive than the ticket.
We landed and met up with another solo traveler who is flying off to Ushuaia tomorrow morning, and planning on sleeping at the airport tonight, as I was still mulling this over in my mind. On a whim I decided to follow them to the other airport, the one for domestic flights. And I am pretty happy I did! I got the cheap ticket, and then we all went into a corner so that Ryan and I could remove some heavy stuff from our main luggage and reduce the weight. We both removed our mountaineering boots, and our food package. The food package (a meticulously selected array of high energy, easy to digest dried fruit of all kinds, nuts, electrolyte pills, gels, gummy bears etc) itself weighed about 7kg. I was happy to see he had at least as much as me if not more, I felt sure I was exaggerating. We checked in, while Kaley kept an eye on (really, hid) our now oversize and overweight carry-on luggage . He was right at 20k. I came in at 28kg (I have my running and kayaking gear, in addition to some stuff I am bringing for others, such as a tent), but for some reason was not charged a thing for this. We quietly took our boarding passes, watched our luggage disappear, and hurried away to our now very heavy carry on luggage and our big boots. I realized I had my crampons with me, ugh! What an idiot! I hope they will let that one pass. Crampons surely qualify as sharp, metallic objects!
And now, relieved, after a great Argentinian pizza, we sit at a locutorio, all 3 of us in front of computers. I had asked almost apologetically whether they minded if I went there, and they both grabbed the opportunity to also get back in touch with friends and family left behind. Ryan is upset his blackberry is not working here. So much for taking a break from technology, travelers! So I will be arriving in Mendoza tonight instead of tomorrow!
Ryan and I on our first night in Mendoza, and the last alcohol either one of us would drink until back down from the mountain; alcohol ruins acclimatization.
Ryan carrying his huge bags from the hostel where we stayed to the hotel where he was meeting his traveling companions.
Ryan renting his double plastic boots for the expedition. Price seem to be set by smell. The cheaper, the stinkier.
Last evening in Mendoza with Ryan and his Summits of Hope travel companions. The next day, they all left for Aconcagua, and I for Vallecitos, to acclimatize. I mentally followed them throughout their expedition and was really happy to see them all again at the end at base camp!
www.summitsofhope.com
Mendoza? People go there for 2 reasons: the mountains, or the wine. I quickly looked at what he was wearing. Jeans, a bulky sweater, a small pack useful for the city but not for the mountain. And talking into a blackberry. A wine amateur. Or maybe a mountaineer in disguise? Of course, we struck up a short conversation, just enough to realize that he and I were embarking on the same expedition, although a few days apart. Predictably, exhausted as the entire plane was, Ryan and I did not continue chatting until this morning, when we enthusiastically compared gear and routes, travels and goals. I suddenly wanted to be there NOW, I wanted to get in it all right away. I knew the flight was pretty cheap. What prevented me from taking it was the excess weight fee; I was allowed 2 pieces of 23kg each out of Canada, but internal flights here allow for half that weight. Each additional kilogram gets a charge of 12 pesos, potentially making the surcharge more expensive than the ticket.
We landed and met up with another solo traveler who is flying off to Ushuaia tomorrow morning, and planning on sleeping at the airport tonight, as I was still mulling this over in my mind. On a whim I decided to follow them to the other airport, the one for domestic flights. And I am pretty happy I did! I got the cheap ticket, and then we all went into a corner so that Ryan and I could remove some heavy stuff from our main luggage and reduce the weight. We both removed our mountaineering boots, and our food package. The food package (a meticulously selected array of high energy, easy to digest dried fruit of all kinds, nuts, electrolyte pills, gels, gummy bears etc) itself weighed about 7kg. I was happy to see he had at least as much as me if not more, I felt sure I was exaggerating. We checked in, while Kaley kept an eye on (really, hid) our now oversize and overweight carry-on luggage . He was right at 20k. I came in at 28kg (I have my running and kayaking gear, in addition to some stuff I am bringing for others, such as a tent), but for some reason was not charged a thing for this. We quietly took our boarding passes, watched our luggage disappear, and hurried away to our now very heavy carry on luggage and our big boots. I realized I had my crampons with me, ugh! What an idiot! I hope they will let that one pass. Crampons surely qualify as sharp, metallic objects!
And now, relieved, after a great Argentinian pizza, we sit at a locutorio, all 3 of us in front of computers. I had asked almost apologetically whether they minded if I went there, and they both grabbed the opportunity to also get back in touch with friends and family left behind. Ryan is upset his blackberry is not working here. So much for taking a break from technology, travelers! So I will be arriving in Mendoza tonight instead of tomorrow!
Ryan and I on our first night in Mendoza, and the last alcohol either one of us would drink until back down from the mountain; alcohol ruins acclimatization.
Ryan carrying his huge bags from the hostel where we stayed to the hotel where he was meeting his traveling companions.
Ryan renting his double plastic boots for the expedition. Price seem to be set by smell. The cheaper, the stinkier.
Last evening in Mendoza with Ryan and his Summits of Hope travel companions. The next day, they all left for Aconcagua, and I for Vallecitos, to acclimatize. I mentally followed them throughout their expedition and was really happy to see them all again at the end at base camp!
www.summitsofhope.com
Wednesday, January 7, 2009
airport
This is where it gets at once calming and exciting. Calming because I can't work myself into a frenzy anymore about everything that I would have wanted to get done. My luggage is away; I can't practice pulling on crampons nice and tight or making knots all with my gloves on, or sleep outside, or test out new clothes, trying to do so in conditions similar to those to be encountered. And in that sense, I feel thankful for the bouts of cold we experienced. It really determined which mitts and hats would do the job. There won't be a warm chalet to duck into to warm up on the mountain...
And exciting. Because all the frenzied preparations behind me, I can now let myseld catch up to the moment, and anticipate, and know that I will be more truly with myself, more truly living what I will be experiencing, than one normally does or can in our regular lives. Breathe..I watch other people. The business travelers so distinct from the rest. The shops close. Everything is quiet. How often have I seen airport and bus terminals and train stations like this. Quiet.
This is why we do this I think. To get back to ourselves. Whether it's through painting like my friend Stacey, or running like many of my friends, or traveling in a certain way that makes us feel closer to what we are; to go back to ourselves.
And exciting. Because all the frenzied preparations behind me, I can now let myseld catch up to the moment, and anticipate, and know that I will be more truly with myself, more truly living what I will be experiencing, than one normally does or can in our regular lives. Breathe..I watch other people. The business travelers so distinct from the rest. The shops close. Everything is quiet. How often have I seen airport and bus terminals and train stations like this. Quiet.
This is why we do this I think. To get back to ourselves. Whether it's through painting like my friend Stacey, or running like many of my friends, or traveling in a certain way that makes us feel closer to what we are; to go back to ourselves.
snow and ice
Alors l'aventure commence un peu tôt à mon goût, c'est compliqué, décoller de Montréal avec toute cette neige. Trois changement de vols, un équipage qui vient tout juste de se joindre à nous en catastrophe, et nous avons attendu une heure et demie pour pouvoir nous faire dégivrer.Maintenant je suis à Toronto, et espère que mon prochain vol décollera comme prévu!
Monday, January 5, 2009
party d'au revoir!
Il y avait là des amis qui ont en commun, entre autre, l'amour du voyage. Surtout les voyages indépendants, un peu fous. Claire et David qui reviennent d'un tour du monde de un an, ayant couru un marathon pour chacun des 5 continents visités. Mari et Henri, qui s'apprêtent à partir un an en 4 par 4 en Afrique. Louis qui les rejoindra pour une partie. Christine qui part 3 mois à Buenos Aires, ou j'ai bien l'intention de la rejoindre! Julie qui va bien se laisser convaincre ;) Sophie qui part en expedition d'escalade avec Jacques. Stacey et Shawn qui ont eu une superbe lune de miel. André et Caro qui partent faire des vols dans toute la province. Et Evelyne qui adore le Guatemala. Une série de toasts à tous ces voyages, toutes ces belles amitiés, je me sentais si bien entourée, si revigorée et pleine d'énergie! Merci à tous et toutes!
Thursday, January 1, 2009
High energy foods that do not freeze and require little chewing
Est-ce que ça existe, de la bouffe qui ne gèle pas lorsqu'il gèle dehors? Encore un truc qu'il faudrait tester! Voir si mes gels, mes gummy bears sont encore comestibles, pour les longues heures de trek où l'on aura besoin d'énergie!
At least I know that chocolate can be eaten when frozen. Although it doesn't taste nearly as good. Who could have thought chocolate could taste not that great? Urgh!
The gels gets really pasty, but they do melt when left in your mouth long enough. I think I will rely more on gummy bears.
At least I know that chocolate can be eaten when frozen. Although it doesn't taste nearly as good. Who could have thought chocolate could taste not that great? Urgh!
The gels gets really pasty, but they do melt when left in your mouth long enough. I think I will rely more on gummy bears.
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